January 27, 2012 - Days 21-23

January 25 – Day 21 – Sea Day

This was a first of sorts. A quiet sea day. There were not too many things that required our attendance on the agenda . So we thought.

I went to a lecture by a geology professor on oil reserves and global warming. It was very well done. He did much to explain the inadequacy of world oil reserves, even with the extraction of oil from shale. This problem is compounded by the increased demand for oil coming from China. Fossil fuels just won’t meet the long term demands. Nuclear fuel seems to be the best solution. This leads to all sorts of controversy.

After that program, the port lecturer talked about the ports for tomorrow, Castro, and Friday, Puerto Chacabuco. Both look interesting. Castro is on an island at the end of a bay, and Puerto Chacabuco is back on the mainland. It will be our gateway to Patagonia.

Next, we attended a lecture by a retired NASA engineer who worked on the space shuttle and international space station. His love is astronomy. His presentation centered around photos taken by the Hubble telescope, after it was repaired in the bay  of the space shuttle. These pictures were truly amazing and beautiful.

Now for a nap to prepare for our evening with the captain and ship’s officers. This is a formal night designated the Black and White Ball. Everybody attempts to incorporate black and white into their formal dress. The officers are especially demonstrative with white tuxedo jackets and black trousers or skirts. I was in black suit, white shirt and bow tie. Alice wore a black and white cocktail dress. We fit in well.

At 6:15 we made our way to the captain’s quarters on deck 11, where we joined about 20 other passengers and many of the ship’s officers and spouses. The captain’s quarters are the largest in the Holland America fleet because this ship was built for Royal Viking Line. It is the only ship not built to HAL specs. 


We had an open bar with a welcome and toast by Captain Tim Roberts. We had all been invited because we were either 4 star mariners (200 days cruising or more) or collector voyagers who were doing this cruise immediately followed by the Grand Mediterranean Voyage. This is the next voyage of the Prinsendam, and leaves the same day that we return to Ft. Lauderdale. It sails for 62 days. 

Drinks finished, we moved down to the Pinnacle Grill on deck 7. Here we were divided and seated with one of the ship’s officers. Alice and I sat with a couple from Akron, Ohio, a lady from Minnesota, who was in a wheelchair, and the ship’s Safety, Engineering and Health Officer. He is a very nice fellow from Liverpool with a 5 month old son at home with his wife. He gets off the ship in April, and goes home to see them. He can’t wait.

Conversation flowed well, as the courses were served and removed. The food was excellent. Kjeron, the officer, gave us some shocking news. He had been talking to the lady in the wheelchair, Kathy, and Alice about their respective experiences in wheelchairs aboard. He told us that there are people who rent chairs, when they cruise, just so they can get preferential treatment in boarding and in seating on tours. He calls the folks from shorex the "miracle workers." They will simply state that wheelchairs cannot be accommodated on some tours. That is when the lame get up and walk. "Truly a miracle" he says.

After dinner, we adjourned to the showroom for the ball. It started at 10 and ended at 11. We danced till the end. Thank goodness for our naps. Even so, the beds were a welcome respite.

January 26 – Day 22 – Castro, Chile

I rose early to get outside and watch our approach to Castro. We had entered the “inside passage” of Chile during the night. Castro is partway down Isla Chiloe on the west side of the passage. When I went out, we were cruising up a long bay to reach Castro at the end of the bay. The shores were very hilly and lush with grain fields, forests, and hedgerows. Gorgeous! Although the sun was shining, it was still quite cool at 8 AM. The tide was out, and the docks along the waterfront were high above the water level. Many fishing boats were resting on the sea bottom.

After breakfast,  we took a tender to shore. We pulled up to a concrete dock that angled from street level down into the sea. This made it possible to dock at any tide level. The walk up the dock led to a street that ran the full distance of the city’s waterfront. This was an easy walk past homes, shops, and stalls. Once at the end of the street, it was time to head up to the city square. This was a workout, as the square and most of the city were at the top of a steep hill. This hill was so steep that the sidewalk had stairs with flat transitions that went on for three long blocks.

Puffing, we reached the square. It was very nice with the expected monuments and fountains. What we did not expect were the huge rose bushes that edged the walkways.

On one side of the square was the church. It was built entirely of wood in 1906 with high arched ceilings and many side altars. Very beautiful on the inside, but very weather beaten on the outside.

Near the church, we found a children’s park filled with large inflatable slides. Lots of kids were enjoying themselves, while parents and grandparents watched them and us.

We started our walk back through town and down toward the water. This walk down was more challenging than the walk up. We had to work to keep erect and not fall forward. The road we took down was at the opposite end of town from our climb up. It was even steeper and had no steps. We negotiated it by taking very small steps. This was to the chagrin of local workers heading home for siesta. They came clomping down behind us, so we would edge over to the side of the walk to let them by. The locals are very fit. They walk, not ride, all over.

When we got back to the dock, the tide was coming in. Boats that had rested on the bottom were now well afloat. We were told that the tidal range is 10 to 20 feet. The shoreline water marks seemed to bear that out.

All the while we were exploring, Alice was fighting a headache. When we got back to the ship, it was unbearable. I went to a late lunch alone. In an attempt to sleep it away, she went to bed, and I took my book out on deck to read after lunch. When I returned to the cabin at 5 to get ready for dinner, the headache had gotten worse. More meds and sleep were the plan. I returned after dinner to find things had not improved. Al took some sleeping pills, and I went off to the entertainment. I was early, so I went out on the promenade deck where, directly in front of us, I saw snow-capped Andes Mountains in the distance. They ranged all along the coast as far as I could see. The sun set, and I went inside. After the show, which was enjoyable, I got back to the cabin. The sleeping pills had worked. Alice was out like a light. I retired at 9:15.

January 27 – Day 23 – Puerto Chacabuco, Chile

Alice awoke headache free at 5:30 this morning. Allah be praised. Wrong part of the world, I know. Appropriate, nonetheless.

Breakfast is over, and Alice is looking forward to going on tour with me today. We are now cruising past steep rock formations, similar to Norway.

Puerto Chacabuco is the gateway to Patagonia. We have a 4 hour tour to drive inland, and experience the mountains and valleys up close. It is currently foggy and raining, but temperate. Layering with ponchos is the order of the day. We are ready for the weather, but sure hope visibility improves. The vagaries of travel.

Even as I write this, the sun is trying to break through. Fog pockets dot the cliffs and peaks making for lovely views. Frank, our port speaker, has just started his narration of the passing geology and the sights to come.

I will break for now. We are looking forward to another adventurous day. It is hard to believe that we are already 1/3^rd through this voyage. Seems like we’ve just begun. Alice is very much at ease with the prospect of getting through 68 days at sea with me. The vastness and beauty of South America certainly help with that.