March 25, 2019 - Conflict Islands, PNG - Monday, Day 78

When we woke up this morning, we had arrived at Conflict Islands. 

This is an atoll consisting of a group of 21 coral islands around the caldera of an ancient volcano. There are reefs between these. Maasdam had carefully entered a large opening in the reef and was now anchored a few miles to the left of that opening near the island of Panasesa . 

This was destined to be a day of swimming, snorkeling or scuba diving for many. For us it would be a tour in a glass bottom boat and a walking tour around the island. 

The water color was incredible. The combination of white sand bottom, shallow water above the reefs and deep water beyond created an array of colors we have never seen anywhere else. The blue spectrum was ably represented with light turquoise over the sandy bottom, darker turquoise over the reef and a beautiful dark blue over the deep water.

Again we were greeted by a very strong rain squall during breakfast. By the time we had finished breakfast the rain was over. We proceeded to the tender line and were boarded on the next one because we were on a tour. This is a private island and the owner is very eco conscious. A channel has been marked to allow the tenders to pass over the reef and to the dock without damaging any coral. The ride and getting off the tender were not at all difficult. 

We proceeded to the tour meeting point. This was the Activity Hut just a few minutes from the dock on a palm shaded white sand path. We were directed to a waiting area under more palms after we signed a waiver of all rights. No problem as we did not expect to fall out of the boat. Our tour would be called as scheduled.

We had passed a few cabins on the way. They were very nice with apparent plumbing and electricity. The paths to them were marked staff only. We wondered what that meant. As it turns out the island is uninhabited, but there are 6 cabins for rent and a staff to care for them and cook and, of course, tend bar. Interesting.

At the appointed hour we were summoned for our tour. We walked down to the beach and boarded the glass bottom boat using a ramp in the bow that had been lowered onto the sand. Alice and I took our seats in the aft near the driver. The seating was along both sides of the glass panels in the bottom of the boat. A railing in front of us provided support so we could lean over to view the bottom.

Once we were all aboard 2 staff pushed us back from the beach and 1 jumped aboard and raised the ramp. This sealed the front of the boat, but some water managed to seep in and pool near the bow. It sloshed around the feet of those up front and got the backpacks left on the floor rather wet.

The driver remained silent throughout while he steered out over the reef. We were just 4 to 5 feet above the coral for most of our journey. The crewman in the bow was the narrator. In addition to explaining the reef and what we were viewing he told us the history of the islands. We learned that the name Conflict Islands came about not because of a battle, but because an HMS naval survey ship named Conflict went aground here in the 1880’s. 

He talked about the many types of coral we could see and pointed out the many fish the darted in and out of the coral. Sadly he only pointed out the fish he did not talk about them. Thankfully one of our lecturers had given a great presentation regarding the marine life here. That helped us a lot as we watched in awe at the activity below us. 

Alice and I had just shared comments about how dull the coral seemed, when the guide explained that the glorious colors of the coral on postcards results from filters and enhancements. It is not true color. While we found the color disappointing, the shapes and sizes of the corals were pretty awesome.

We enjoyed this 1 hour excursion. Our only real disappointment was that we did not encounter any of the se turtles that come to lay their eggs on the beaches here once a year.

Back on shore we returned to the activities hut to await our walking tour. Once our group was complete we set off on a 2 hour walk of the island. Our guide took us to the emergency airstrip near the middle of the island, past the turtle hatchery, the vegetable gardens and through some fruit groves. The paths were well maintained and the gardens were well cared for by a staff of gardeners. The produce is used in the kitchens for preparing meals for the guests. I have searched online to learn about how to stay here, but had no results other than one reference that states it is for the elusive use of guests from P&O cruise line. Manu, our guide, provided historical background on the islands, and the story of how an Australian businessman bought Panasesa without ever seeing it just because he could. He is now developing in a small and controlled manner to maintain it as eco friendly as possible.

Air Strip

Path to the Gardens

Turtle Hatchery

After our tour we spent an hour walking the beach to the end of the island before returning to the tender pier. There was an open air bar near the tip of the island. It was simple but inviting. A short path behind it led to the all important Necessary Rooms. a welcome relief.

South Bar Near Tip of the Island

Tip of the Island

Traditional and New

Wooden Bowls and Carvings

Hand Made Baskets for Sale

This water is so beautiful. The vegetation is glorious. The solitude is inviting. The idea that you could stay in a cabin here in comfort and enjoy snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing and the views from the deck of your secluded lodging is wonderful. We think this is a more attractive escape than French Polynesia with its overly commercial atmosphere. We wish we had discovered this earlier in our lives. It is so unspoiled!

Another Squall as We Wait for a Tender

Back on Maasdam the dinner time chatter was all about what a beautiful stop this was. We think it was unanimous that this was the nicest island getaway imaginable. Another great day. A beautiful way to close our journey before our final sea days on the way to Brisbane.