February 23, 2012 - Days 48-50

February 21 – Day 48 – Recife 2 (cont.)

Our return to Carnaval was executed as planned, with the addition of our tablemates. We left at 7:15 to walk into the small square that we first visited in the morning. It was jumping. The pattern is for local “clubs” to come to the stage with their musical accompaniment and dancers. They perform for some time until the next “club” appears. We could not tell if these  appearances are scheduled for specific times or just to an order of a specific “club” following another. “Clubs” can be formal, such as a church group, or informal, such as a bunch of neighbors. All that we saw were very entertaining and high quality. The rhythms were great, and you couldn’t help but move to the beat.

After a while at the first square, we moved through the streets headed toward the Zero Mark. All streets emanate from here, and it had the main stage. Along the way we moved with the crowd. We never felt hemmed-in or threatened, despite the many warnings onboard about the threat of theft. We passed many of the booths that had been closed in the morning. They all offered either food or drinks. They were lined up on both sides of the streets, and were set up right next to each other. It is hard to understand how they all succeed. The one thing missing was T-shirts. I really wanted one from Carnival, but the only one I did see was in such poor taste, I passed on it.

We finally arrived at the Zero Mark. Wow! The huge stage was full of musicians and dancers. The square was full of revelers. Surrounding the square were raised platforms on every corner staffed with armed policemen monitoring the crowd. There were also jumbo screens all around the square to televise the performances. This was really great and well worth the return to town.

After a while in this square, we moved off to the area where the acts meet, get into costume, get made up, and grab a bite to eat. This was just off of the square along the waterfront. It, too, was packed with people. Some were performers, but many others were just ordinary folks dressed in costume or just hanging out.

As we went back to the main square it started to drizzle. We stood for a while longer to listen. Then the skies opened, and it poured. We got drenched in a warm rain, and started back to the ship. It was fun to pass sidewalk restaurants and see patrons standing with chairs held over their heads, trying to keep dry. The rain stopped and we walked slowly back, taking in the lights, the music and the happiness of the crowds.

Back at the Prinsendam at 9 PM, the security officer told us we were 5 of 20 people who went into town. All aboard was 10 PM. He was happy to see us.

After iced tea in the Lido, Alice and I went to the 10 PM show in the theater. It was a very professional local group that demonstrated the most common dances of the are for Carnival. Most enjoyable, but sedate compared to town.

After the show we went up to the Crow’s Nest for Caipirinhas, a Brazilian sour, and the 11 PM sail away. We retired thrilled that we had experienced Brazilian Carnaval. From what we know of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, we cannot imagine anything topping this.

February 22 – Day 49 – Cabedelo/Joao Pessoa, Brazil

Cabadelo was an easy overnight sail from Recife. We entered a river from the ocean and docked at the industrial docks. We learned later that only 2 cruise ships a year come here. This was a first time for the Prinsendam.

We had booked a tour called Oriental City and Ravel’s Bolero, which left at 9 AM.

Because tourism is so new here, they are very happy to see us, and very anxious to please. As a result they have a guide who speaks Portuguese and a translator who repeats in English. Both of these men, on our bus, were excellent.

We headed off through Cabadelo, a town of 70,000, headed toward another river. There we stopped at a waterside restaurant where an older gentleman was rowed into the river while standing in the boat. He performed Ravel’s Bolero on the saxophone to the accompaniment of a prerecorded track. This man performs every evening at sunset. Because of the proximity to the equator, sunset is at the same time everyday throughout the year. He holds the Guinness record for most performances of the same music. He was very good.

The man rowing the boat was also an artist. He fought a rapid current to keep the boat in front of the restaurant, while turning it to give everyone a view of the star. Quite a job.

From there we toured the highlights of Joao Pessoa. This city is a 20 minute ride from Cabadelo. It has 300,000 residents and is the capital of the state. Most of the people work in government or construction. The heart of the city is very old, but the outskirts are new high-rise apartment buildings. Many of these are under construction, and tower cranes abound. The construction is a concrete frame filled in with brick. This is all then covered in glazed tiles about 9 inches square. Most buildings are multi-colored, with the balconies changing color every 5 floors. The tiles are used to overcome the impact of the salt air, which tends to cause mold on concrete. This gives an ugly black stain to the older buildings, while the new buildings look bright and shiny.

We also drove along the beautiful beach. The beach is well used by locals, and is becoming a tourist attraction. Buildings along the shore are limited to 3 stories to allow the sea breeze to reach inland. It is always very hot and humid here.

Along the beach we learned why Joao Pessoa is called Oriental City. It is the most eastern (oriental) city of South America, and the closest point to Africa. In fact it is farther to Sao Paulo Brazil than to Africa.


Upon returning to the Prinsendam we were met by a very sour odor along the dock. I spied grain beside the rails for the crane, and told Alice the smell was fermented grain. They unload grain here, and the spillage blows into the grooves along the tracks where it gets wet when it rains. Then it rots and ferments.


Several hours later the captain confirmed my guess during his report from the bridge. He told it just as I had explained it to Alice. Wonder if I can apply for his job.

At 4 PM 2 tugs helped us turn in the river against the heavy current, and we headed off to sea. Tomorrow is another sea day, cruising to Fortaleza.

February 23 – Day 50 – Sea Day

This sea day is almost over. It has been uneventful. The sea is very calm, and the 2 mile per hour current is pushing us. We can hardly tell we are moving, but we are doing 19 knots.

We have to go to dinner now. Wouldn’t want to miss a meal.

Will be back after our next port.