February 24 – Day 51 – Fortaleza, Brazil
After dinner last night, the captain announced that since Fortaleza is the last city where we can fill our water tanks before entering the Amazon, we will arrive this evening rather than tomorrow morning. While we can get water here, it is a slow process.
We arrived at 8 PM. We were originally told that the gangway would open at 8:30 and close at 1 AM. This surprised us because we had been warned by the port speaker aboard that the area of the docks was adjacent to a Favela. This is best described as a slum area with a high theft rate. He had advised us to take the ship’s shuttle or a taxi away from the docks. With our early arrival none of these would be available. Shortly after arrival we were told that our clearance had been delayed, and the gangway would not open until morning. Port authorities, or a wise captain?
Immediately after breakfast Alice and I headed for the shuttle to town. The queue was long and, as we waited ,a couple cut in ahead of us. Oh well, that won’t matter we thought. Hah! They were the last to board this shuttle, and we became first in line for the next one in 20 minutes. We were disappointed at first, but this turned into a blessing of sorts. We got to spend 20 minutes with the local guide who was directing the shuttle boardings.
He was very charming and his English was excellent. He explained that Fortaleza is the 5th largest city in Brazil at 2.5 million people. He gets to practice his English twice a year when American cruise ships arrive. The rest of his time is spent full-time in tourism. Fortaleza is so close to the equator that the temperature is constant all year, and the daylight hours remain the same as well. So this is the vacation spot of choice for all Brazilians. He likened it to us going to Florida or Arizona during the winter, only better. We learned a lot about him and his family. It was a real joy to have this opportunity. Alice calls this a God Whisper.
It was a 20 minute ride to the Central Market. We arrived at 10 AM, and set off on foot. A cursory stroll through the market led us to conclude we would walk off on our own, and return to shop later. On the way out of the market we got a map at the tourist office, and set off.
Up the block was the cathedral. We visited it first. It is a very impressive structure, somewhat similar to Notre Dame. The exterior has been badly blackened by the effects of the sea air, but the inside is spectacular. The stained glass is beautiful, and there is really a lot of it. The main altar is very simple and contemporary.
We walked out and started our trek to the Cultural Center. On the map it seemed close, and we set off to find it. Pretty soon we were in a neighborhood where I did not feel safe. It was very run down and several people looked us up and down as we went by. We returned to the market, and asked the guide at our shuttle stop how to get to the Cultural Center. He explained the route, and showed us on the map that distances were badly distorted. Many streets were left out.
With his directions we set out again. We are so glad we did not give up. It was some distance, but well worth the walk. This complex contains an art museum, planetarium, artist workshop and outdoor amphitheater as well as some shops and cafes. It covers several square blocks, and is elevated because of the terrain. Everything was closed, but walking through the halls and walkways was delightful. We had a great time.
When we left we were headed back to the area of the cathedral, but we wanted to use a different route. Recognizing the pitfalls of our map we chose to follow main streets until we could see the spires. This worked well, and we turned toward the cathedral, when we saw it. Soon we came to a dead end, and took a side street through a neighborhood tha was being rehabbed. The finished homes were very nice, and the potential for the others was obvious. At the next major intersection we would, again, turn toward the cathedral, and skirt the obstacle that caused the dead end. First we noticed that on the corner was a large building with solid walls that opened to the air for the top 15 feet below the roof. We heard the voices of children at play. Across from this building was a large and beautiful catholic school. I thought the building on the corner must be a gymn for the school so we looked for an entrance. Once inside we found a lap pool on one side. This was not in use so, we kept looking. On the other side was a combination basketball and soccer hall. An enthusiastic group of boys and girls was playing basketball. What fun.
We continued toward the cathedral and discovered that the obstacle was a stream flowing through a forested garden right in the middle of the city behind the cathedral. We later learned that this was the garden of the bishop’s residence. His home is directly behind the cathedral.
We were here to use the cathedral as a starting point for our other explorations. Walking down the streets we saw many shops selling hammocks of all designs and ornamentation. These are commonly used here because of the heat. Nights are not much cooler than days. Our guide had explained earlier that they never need or use sweaters or jackets.
Next came a series of ladies clothing shops. These were everyday wear, not anything special. The locals were out in force. We walked on, and arrived at the public walkway on our map. This is a beautiful park, nicely wooded, with many benches along the paths and buildings on all sides. It is a real oasis. We sat on a bench in the shade, and ate ice cream bars.
We walked on in search of other attractions. On the way we were again off the tourist track, but in good neighborhoods with all sorts of shops. Suddenly Alice stopped to take a picture. We were in front of a casket store. The long narrow shop had caskets standing on end along both sides. The lady proprietor noticed us, and invited us in. She spoke no English, but was obviously proud of her stock, especially a display that she led us to at the very back. It was a three small caskets for animals. The top was for a cat. The remaining two were for dogs of different sizes. Carved paw prints adorned the tops. We got pictures of the various types of caskets, animals, children and adults. The carvings varied from simple to ornate, and all were beautiful.
The caskets were Egyptian-shaped, narrow at the head, broadened at the shoulders, and then tapered down at the feet. Over what would be the head was a removable panel. This allowed for viewing the face at the wake. No ship’s tour appeared here!
Eventually we came to the pedestrian market. This was several blocks with stalls down the middle and shops in the buildings lining the sides. We found all kinds of gadgets, hardware, tools, clothing, and appliances. No one spoke English, but all were friendly and helpful.
Next was a pretty square with an unusual clock tower. It was unusual because it was not very high, and it was very modern. The shops around the square were more upscale.
As we went back to the Central Market to catch the shuttle to the ship, we passed through a pretty park. All along the many walkways were vendors selling all sorts of school books. Summer is winding down, and school will be starting soon.
Back at the central market, we toured some of the five floors of vendors. We found a lot of clothing and some leather goods, but the prices were high compared to other ports. We ended up buying postcards and cashews, the local specialty. Then we boarded the shuttle.
We arrived back at the ship at 3 PM. This was a great 5 hour visit to a port to which we could see returning. We did happy hour in the Crow’sNest waiting for a 5:30 sail away. Local authorities held us up and we were at dinner when sail away occurred. After dinner we skipped the entertainment and loafed in the cabin until retiring at 9:30. We were beat, but happy.
February 25, 2012 – Day 52 – Sea Day
When we got to the cabin last night there was letter from the captain advising that effective today we are to use water as cautiously as possible. The Prinsendam will be unable to make fresh water anywhere on the Amazon because of the dirty water and the debris that would clog our imports. The self service laundries will remain closed, and the ship’s laundry will only process essential laundry. We take this to mean underwear. Towels will be replaced only if requested. Now we better understand the importance of loading on water in Fortaleza.
These restrictions will last until we leave the Amazon on March 4th. This is fine with us. We have been taking sailboat showers with a quick wet down, turn off the water, lather up and then a quick rinse off. The retractable clothes line, provided in the bathroom, will be put to good use drying our towels for reuse.
Today is our Mariners Luncheon and a formal night. Too many changes of clothes are required, but it will be fun.
As we entered the showroom for the medal awards that preceded the luncheon, the diningroom manager stopped us. He asked us to remain in the showroom after the ceremony and not go to the dining room until escorted. We are not getting any awards, so to we wondered what was up.
After the ceremony, we were ushered aside and introduced to 3 people with 700 days plus of cruising. We were all taken to the dining room together, and seated at the Hotel Manager’s table. Since the captain does not attend the luncheon the Hotel Manager is the “Top Dog.” We had a grand time with him. He is very personable, and included each of us in conversation. We still do not know why our meager 200 plus days earned us the privilege, but it was fun. The waiter, assistant waiter and wine server for this table were the same crew that serves our dinner table. They were happy to see us and raised their eyebrows when they did. It will be interesting at dinner tonight. We are happy to know that they are so good as to be chosen to serve the boss. We have always been happy with the way they serve us.
I am off to continue reading. Then we will change for church and dinner. Tonight is the first ever Prinsendam Raspberry awards for guest performances and stories. Should be interesting.
Till next time, we find the time winding down. We can’t believe how close the end is.
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