January 22, 2016 - Day 18 - Rangiroa

At 6:15 I was reading in the Lido when the ship started rocking. Looking out the window revealed that we had just entered the pass through the reef that leads into the lagoon inside the atoll of Rangiroa.

This was another stop we made 5 years ago. It is a tender port. After exiting the pass we had crossed another reef to starboard the last time. This time we bore off slightly to port and dropped anchor. This is south of the pass. Our tender pier is on this side. The last time we were anchored north of the pass and we tendered to the north side. Oceania Marina occupies the other side.

CHANNEL INTO LAGOON -PACIFIC OCEAN IS AT TOP

Our recollection is that the north side was rather primitive with few structures near the pier. The roads were gravel until we reached the ocean. Here a paved road followed the spine of the atoll near the ocean. On the south side all of he roads are paved, and there are many buildings. We visited craft tables at the pier, and started our walk.

The post office came first. It was busy with tourists buying stamps. Across the street a small stand sold drinks and snacks. We passed a few homes and turned onto a street that paralleled the lagoon. Passing more homes, some very nice, some ramshackled, took us to the first church. It had an enclosed worship space and an open, but roofed, outdoor space. It was old, but well kept.

PROTESTANT CHURCH

CATHOLC CHURCH

We kept walking, and visited a small grocery store. The stock consisted mostly of canned and bottled staples. It reminded us of stores we had visited on some of the smaller Virgin Islands. Prices seemed reasonable.

We arrived at another more imposing church. It was the Catholic Church. It was fully enclosed with nicely carved woodwork.

More homes and gardens. Then we turned onto a road leading toward the lagoon. At the water's edge ahead of us a woman siting on a bench invited us to join her. This was Wilma. She explained that her mother was married to a German man. This is how she got her German name. We were on the sea side of a modest home. It had been her grandfather's, and stayed in the family. Wilma was very friendly. She insisted that I sit on the bench next to her. She talked about her family and her history. She explained that there were 1,300 inhabitants on this side of the channel. The other side has 1,000. Everyone is happy when the ships come in. This is their chance to earn some money, and today there are two ships. As we started to leave, she gave Alice a woven leaf. She explained that this was a Tahiti Twist. How gracious she was.

VIEW FROM WILMA'S HOUSE

WILMA AND PAT

We now went looking for the road that would take us across to the ocean side of the island. It turned out to be straight ahead of us, when we left Wilma's. As we started down the road we could barely see the breakers along the oean shore. About halfway there we found a cemetery that spanned the road. The graves were well kept and very interesting. We spent at least half an hour here. We could not determine the reason for it being on both sides of the road. It may have been denominational. It did not seem that one side was older than the other. Perhaps they just ran out of land. Finally, we reached the ocean. The shoreline was very rugged, and the waves came crashing in over the reef. The color of the water was a beautiful turquoise. The lagoon far down the coast showed even more colors.

RANGIROA CEMETERY

As we stood watching the waves Alice noticed a pinching on her leg. Looking down she found that we had collected a vast number of stickers from the weeds in the cemetery. Ever so carefully we removed them one by one from our slacks. We were glad we had worn slacks and not shorts.

We started to follow the road along the shore in the direction of the channel. We could hear the waves breaking ahead, but could not yet see the channel. Finally, there it was around the bend. The waves were crashing over the reef on either side of the channel. Again, the colors were beautiful. The road turned to follow the channel, taking us past some modest homes and a bed and breakfast with its own beach. The sand looked nice. Some kids were enjoying the water. Walking on led us to the tender pier and our ride home. Amsterdam truly has become our home.

THE PACIFIC SHORE

BEAUTIFUL RANGIROA

We decided to attend the sailaway because of the narrow channel we must traverse. The festivities were not so special, but the passage was a lot of fun. The captain did the traditional blasting of the horn, and the people on shore waved frantically. All were smiling.

January 21, 2016 - Day 17 - Sea Day

Another sea day. It started with a good port lecture in the morning. Then, after lunch, we attended our final ukulele class. It went very well, and we were instructed to be in the Crows Nest at 4:00. We would have a slot in the show that started then.

We attended the afternoon lecture. Then we sat in as viewers at the jewelry auction. In all of our cruises this was the first time any jewelry was auctioned. And this was fine jewelry. I had been talking to the shop about a very nice man's ring. It was white gold with 4 chocolate diamonds and a rose gold inlay. My interest had yielded a discount of not quite 50%. This was not enough. They told me it would go on auction with a minimum bid set by the shop. I told them what I was willing to pay. They assured me I would be pleased with the asking price. At the auction I learned that the required bid was just 2% less than the shop's offer to me. This was still quite a bit more than my offer. I decided to watch and see what it sold for. It did not sell. Again, I expressed my desire to buy it at my price to save them the trouble of packing it up to take off the ship at Papeete. They packed it up.

Alice and I joined our ukulele classmates in the Crows Nest at 4:00. We would perform after the OnLocation team performed their Polynesian program of song and dance. Our time came and we strummed and sang our hearts out. It was a blast. We were at our best. We were well received, and we were thrilled to have done it. Now for Happy Hour!

January 20, 2016 - Day 16 - Nuku Hiva

This morning we saw land for the fist time in 8 days. We have netted the Marquesas, our first group of islands in French Polynesia. We will anchor this morning at Nuku Hiva. Five years ago we stopped here as we left the South Pacific. Then I pushed Alice around n a wheelchair as she recovered from a broken ankle. This time we toured on foot.

The tender ride was efficient. We tried to use the Internet at the pier. Logging in went well, but the speed was poorer than onboard. We abandoned this. After shopping the craft tables set up around the pier, we set off on the main road. This followed the waterfront. Our goal was the cathedral. Last time we turned off the road too soon. I ended up pushing the chair up a steep road that led to a closed church. This time we learned that the airport was out this road. The cathedral was up the next crossroad.

Eureka! We found it. The wood carvings were beautiful. The openness was pure Polynesia. The stone work was intricate and complex. We were so happy to see it. Outside there was a shrine up a hillside. We went up carefully to get some pictures. On the way we commented on the slippery and steep footing. We chose to walk down another way that seemed less treacherous. In doing so, we passed a large Banyan tree. It was beautiful. Nobody else had come our way. We had the sights to ourselves and it was safer.

After a long, leisurely walk along the shore, we returned to the tender pier for the ride back home. Amsterdam welcomed us with her air conditioning. We were soaked. The heat and humidity had taken their toll. The cruise director commented that people getting off the tenders looked like they had swum back. We were that wet. Nuku Hiva had been a successful port for us.

THIS IS NUKU HIVA

January 13 to 19, 2016 - Days 9 to 15 - Sea Days

This makes the longest string of sea days we have ever experienced. We love it. 

The lectures and crafts have been wonderful. Things are made even better by the outstanding On Location team. Alice has learned to make a necklace, two bracelets and a floral hair adornment. Each of these took place poolside at 9:00 AM on succeeding days. I joined her on another day, and we were taught to weave bracelets using all natural materials.

Together we met everyday in a class led by ukulele master, Doug. He is a very patient man who has been playing ukulele for over 50 years. Our class of 30 learned how to sing and play a Tahitian song. As we mastered this song, he taught us new chords, another key and chord progressions. We were soon striking Bridge Over Troubled Waters, Dream Dream and Happy Birthday. Before he and the team leave us in Papeete, we will perform in the Crows Nest.we have not missed any of Doug's classes and are getting comfortable with our playing. We look forward to the performance.

Doug has been encouraging the class to continue with the ukulele after the cruise. He recommends looking for used instruments in the concert or tenor sizes. These have more room for fingering the frets. He also advises taking just a few refresher lessons, and teaching ourselves from there using teaching aids. He is very practical.

LAST SHOW

It is funny to overhear conversations in the Lido or showroom with people complaining about the boredom of sea days. I heard one man, as I walked laps on the deck on the second sea day, saying he could not wait to go ashore. I would have loved to hear him on sea day eight.

The sea has been very calm with gentle swells. No need for sea sickness bags to be put out. The temperature is steady in the middle 80's. Water temperature has been 84 - 86. Sunrises and sunsets have varied from ho-hum to spectacular. Can you tell how happy we are?

Holland America's response to our request to extend our cruise offered no discount on the fare, no prepaid gratuities, no luggage transfer and loss of our airfare home from Singapore together with forfeiture of two nights hotel and transfers there. So, we will go home from Singapore.

After some discussion we have decided to book the World Cruise for 2017. The itinerary is very attractive. It will even give us the opportunity to take a side trip to the Taj Mahal. This has long been on our Bucket List. Table mates Diane and Terri have already asked us to dine with them next year. We are delighted. We are having so much fun together. For example they have taught us how to "score" table decorations after specialty dinners. Our stateroom looks fantastic.

January 13 to 19, 2016 - Days 9 to 15 - Sea Days

This makes the longest string of sea days we have ever experienced. We love it. 

The lectures and crafts have been wonderful. Things are made even better by the outstanding On Location team. Alice has learned to make a necklace, two bracelets and a floral hair adornment. Each of these took place poolside at 9:00 AM on succeeding days. I joined her on another day, and we were taught to weave bracelets using all natural materials.

Together we met everyday in a class led by ukulele master, Doug. He is a very patient man who has been playing ukulele for over 50 years. Our class of 30 learned how to sing and play a Tahitian song. As we mastered this song, he taught us new chords, another key and chord progressions. We were soon striking Bridge Over Troubled Waters, Dream Dream and Happy Birthday. Before he and the team leave us in Papeete, we will perform in the Crows Nest.we have not missed any of Doug's classes and are getting comfortable with our playing. We look forward to the performance.

Doug has been encouraging the class to continue with the ukulele after the cruise. He recommends looking for used instruments in the concert or tenor sizes. These have more room for fingering the frets. He also advises taking just a few refresher lessons, and teaching ourselves from there using teaching aids. He is very practical.

It is funny to overhear conversations in the Lido or showroom with people complaining about the boredom of sea days. I heard one man, as I walked laps on the deck on the second sea day, saying he could not wait to go ashore. I would have loved to hear him on sea day eight.

The sea has been very calm with gentle swells. No need for sea sickness bags to be put out. The temperature is steady in the middle 80's. Water temperature has been 84 - 86. Sunrises and sunsets have varied from ho-hum to spectacular. Can you tell how happy we are?

Holland America's response to our request to extend our cruise offered no discount on the fare, no prepaid gratuities, no luggage transfer and loss of our airfare home from Singapore together with forfeiture of two nights hotel and transfers there. So, we will go home from Singapore.

After some discussion we have decided to book the World Cruise for 2017. The itinerary is very attractive. It will even give us the opportunity to take a side trip to the Taj Mahal. This has long been on our Bucket List. Table mates Diane and Terri have already asked us to dine with them next year. We are delighted. We are having so much fun together. For example they have taught us how to "score" table decorations after specialty dinners. Our stateroom looks fantastic.

January 12, 2016 - Day 8 - Sea Day

Following breakfast, Good Morning Amsterdam featured the marionettist from last night. He is very interesting. He started working with puppets as a young child. He planned his education to lead to a professional career as a performer with puppets and marionettes. He designs and builds his own characters. The Chinese magician in his final act had 32 strings. He will present 2 lectures explaining his art with behind the scenes videos. We can't wait.

At 10:00 the On Location team from the islands was introduced. This consists of 5 indigenous men and women from French Polynesia. They boarded in Panama, and will spend the next 8 days with lectures on their culture and teaching dance, crafts, drumming and ukulele. They are very talented and personable. We are looking forward to their classes.

The afternoon was filled with computer and craft classes for Alice. I fell asleep in a lecture, and took a nap before dinner. We went to Happy Hour in the Crow's Nest before going to the dining room. This was our first visit. The drinks, snacks and music were delightful.

DOUG - OUR UKELE TEACHER

THE WHOLE POLYNESIAN TEAM

Our table was back to full complement. Conversation flowed as freely as the wine. Two hours passed in a flash. Then it was off to see the comedian, set the clocks back an hour and retire early. First we got the laundry ready. Tomorrow is a busy day with the On Location team.

January 11, 2016 - Day 7 - Panama City

We took a tender to shore right after breakfast. Our plan was to look for the Hop On Hop Off tour, but instead we joined the line for the free shuttle.

PAINTED ON FRONT OF AMSTERDAM ABOVE BOW DECK

HERE WE ARE

SLOTH IN TREE OUTSIDE TERMINAL

SKYLNE FROM TERMINAL

We did not see a tourist desk or ticket booth for the HoHo, so this seemed like a good option. We learned that the shuttle would take us to a large mall. This was Albrook Mall. It is HUGE! Someone told us this is the largest mall in South America.

The mall is two stories of air conditioned comfort. Unlike our malls it does not have a loop design. It occupies a long piece of real estate that goes on and on. The shuttle stop was at one end. We walked the full length and returned hours later. Although we did not spend a penny, we had a great time window shopping. We skipped the bowling at the center of the upper level. We could not get over the large number of luggage stores.

MALL ENTRANCE

NAIL POLISH AND LIPSTICK KIOSK

At the end farthest from our entry we found a Whyndam hotel with a direct entrance to the mall. It has a lovely lobby with interesting artwork. Very modern.

We really did not mind missing the HoHo bus. When we transited in 2012, we spent 4 days in the hospital after I lost vision in my left eye at the last lock. While waiting clearance to return to the ship, we were taken on a comprehensive city tour by the administrator from the doctors' clinic. See my January, 2012 blog posts. We cannot imagine that the HoHo would have been better than her fine tour.

We returned to Amsterdam satisfied that we had experienced a good day after 5 hours ashore. We did marvel at the expanded skylines. The city has grown up in four years.

We recounted our adventures with Terri and Diane at dinner. Pam and Diana were in the Pinnacle for dinner. We all were satisfied with our taste of Panama. We were once again encouraged to extend our voyage, but the news from Michael at the cruise desk was dismal. We would lose both our airfare home and hotel cost in Singapore. That is over $3,000, and there are no deals or perks for the remaining segment.

We have decided to book the 2017 World Voyage.

Tonight's entertainer presented a marionette show. He was outstanding. If we watched his stage, we could see how he managed the performers. If we watched the large video screens to the sides, he blended into the stage curtains. We could not even tell he was there. The marionettes are so lifelike that you forget they are "dolls". The final act was a Chinese magician. The illusions he performed were unbelievable.

Our deck walk was spent rehashing the wonderful things we just saw onstage. Then we recounted our day, and went to bed. Quite satisfied.

January 10, 2016 - Day 6 - Canal Transit

I did not get up as early planned, but did get outside by 7:30. This was just as we approached the entry to the first lock. In the past I have always stayed on the top deck at the bow. This time I found a good spot at the rail on deck 3. This afforded a very different view. It was much closer to the action, and dramatized the change in elevation as the locks were flooded. I met Alice in the cabin at 8:30 for breakfast in the dining room.

SISTER SHIP RISES AHEAD OF US

                                   

WE HAVE RISEN IN FIRST LOCK

As we finished breakfast, Amsterdam was exiting the last of the 3 Gatun locks and entering Lake Gatun. This is the large body that provides the water necessary to operate the locks. Anchored off to our port side was MS Zuiderdam. She had passed through just ahead of us. Her itinerary includes the Caribbean with a partial canal passage. She will stay at anchor here, while shore excursions operate. This afternoon, when the traffic pattern changes, she will reboard her passengers, and lock back to the Caribbean. We will continue on to the Pacific Ocean, where we will overnight at Panama City.

The day is passing very leisurely. It is great to have done this before. We come and go as we please without worrying about missing anything. One frustration is the lack of visible progress on the new wider locks. Their channels are some distance from the original locks. This makes it impossible to see the construction. In 2014 we were told they would be operational by now. Cost overruns and labor disputes have pushed that off quite a bit. Now they do not even suggest a completion date.

The canal narrator, who does the transit with us, is very good. We think we have heard him before. While he is vague on a completion date, he does provide a lot of information about the construction. He explained that the current channel between the locks is 40 feet deep. The ships built to maximize utilization of the new locks will require 60 feet of depth. Dredging to accommodate this is ongoing.

At the last locks, Miraflores, there is a four story observation tower. In the past there have always been a lot of people here. Today is Sunday. Every level is loaded with people shoulder to shoulder. As we approached they all started cheering. A gentleman with a microphone was leading them on from the ground level. We did not understand his Spanish, but the crowd reaction was fantastic. What fun!

We completed our transit and headed to the anchorage at Amador. Tender service would take us to the marina. It sits at the end of a long causeway leading to Panama City. For this evening we are content to take in the views of the skylines. There are 3 downtowns about 5 miles apart.

Tonight's entertainer was a harpist in the Latin style. She seemed very good, but I was not in the mood. To top it off she struck me as an older woman trying too hard to look like a youngster. I was glad to get out on the promenade, when she finished. Alice thought more kindly of her than I did. Guess it really was my mood.

We are getting in the habit of closing out our day with a nice walk around the deck after the show. This helps settle dinner, and we have the promenade to ourselves.

January 9, 2016 - Day 5 - Puerto Limon, Costa Rica

Today started at 5:45. After a quick,but satisfying breakfast in the Lido, we joined the crowd in the lounge to wait for our tour to be called. 

We left on time to board a twenty passenger minibus for our coastal tour and banana plantation visit. Maria, our guide, was excellent. Her English was perfect, and her desire to inform us was outstanding. She made several stops to pick fruit from the trees in order to explain them, see them and touch them. A real treat.

Howler Monkey

The tour description warned that banana processing might not be happening on a Saturday. When we arrived, a full shift was working. The manager explained how the bananas grew, how they were harvested, and how they were processed and shipped. We then entered the work area to watch the process. The first thing I noticed was the bike rack full of bikes. The town is nearby, and folks bike to work. The efficiency of the processing was impressive. As the bananas are cut from the large bunches, they are placed in tubs of water. This starts the lowering of their temperature to 52 degrees. They will be transported at this temperature for as long as 2-3 weeks before arriving in the stores. They start this journey very green. At one stage the cut ends of the bananas are painted with a solution to retard spoilage. Finally, they are carefully placed in boxes and loaded into refrigerated containers. They are then moved to the port by train where the containers are loaded onto ships. This Dole plant ships to the US, Canada and Europe.

Another informative drive through the countryside took us back to the port. Maria is very proud of her homeland, and she does an admirable job of representing it. We are grateful to have visited it with her.

After leaving the bus we toured the port side handicraft market. It has not changed in the 2 years since our last visit. In fact, the whole city looks pretty much the same. It was nice to get away from it on this trip. Next we loitered along the shore before reboarding. Then it was lunch, a Skype class, church and dinner. We arrived for dinner 15 minutes late. Mass had run long. But Andy delivered our appetizers in short order. We were all caught up. That is when the cajoling began. "What do you mean you haven't booked the rest of the voyage yet?" We promised to address that tomorrow. Everyone seemed to enjoy their day as much as we had.

After dinner it was off to see the Finkels perform again. This was a very different and enjoyable show. Dad, Fiveish, did not perform, but gladly signed any purchased CD's. We toddled off to walk a mile on the lower promenade before retiring. We would lose an hour's sleep, and we wanted to get up early for our transit of the Panama Canal. This will be our 4th full transit, but we never tire of it.