February 6, 2029 - Male’, Maldives - Wednesday, Day 31

February 6, 2029 - Male’, Maldives - Wednesday, Day 31

We anchored in deep water offshore and tendered in to a jetty near the ferry terminal. In his lecture the EXc guide explained that this small island is the capital of The Maldives, but it could be walked around in just over an hour. He could not convey how densely populated it is nor how tightly packed the buildings, many of them high-rises, are. All of this on an island with a high point just 5 feet above sea level. 

Getting off the tender we found ourselves in the middle of the hustle and bustle. Alice and I had planned to walk the perimeter and venture inland for interesting sights along the way. 

We followed the waterfront past jetty after jetty. These were crowded with high speed boats of varying sizes. These were identified with different resort names. Male’ is home to the international airport on an island at the end of a graceful bridge. Tourists arrive by air and then come to the jetties where the shuttles whisk them away to the luxurious resorts. There are are so many ferries because many of the islands house only one resort. 

Walking past the jetties we got to the central square. This open are is covered in concrete and AstroTurf. There is no grass here. Beyond the square we found the grand mosque and the art museum. A walk through this space led us to a street lined with souvenir shops. We quickly passed them by as we returned to the waterfront. 

Our objective was the markets. In short order we were in the produce market. This array of sheds was at the water’s edge. It contained the numerous stalls we have come to expect. All were selling the same produce, and all were doing a brisk business. It was crowded so we hurried through to the other side. 

At the water again we watched as men unloaded large containers of fresh caught fish from the many boats tied up side by side. Carts took these containers across the street to the fish market. We followed. Fish markets in this part of the world are called wet markets. This is because of the constant presence of water washing away fish blood and waste as well as overflowing from the tanks. This market differed from that in that it was very clean. The fish from the containers was transferred to large rectangular “trays” where buyers picked out what they wanted and took the fish to another work area where they were gutted and filleted. The end product is bagged and the buyer leaves. 

We did not see money change hands, but slips of paper were transferred. All of the transactions seemed to be commercial for restaurants and resorts. None of the buyers were women. After spending a fascinating time watching men professionally process fish we left. 

Continuing our walk took us through blocks of similar kinds of shops. There were plumbers, hardware stores, marine supplies, sweets shops, lighting shops and on and on all clustered by type. 

Then we came to a posh residential neighborhood. There were nice looking houses and upscale apartments. One development had its own sand beach and grass roofed huts. We paused her for shelter from a passing shower. 

As we approached a ferry terminal we passed the highest building on the island. It is a new apartment tower 20 stories high. A second tower is under construction and being marketed around the city. We don’t know how the island supports this both physically and fiscally. 

Back on one of the main drags we passed some schools with students in transit. They wore different uniforms which we did not understand. We did not have much luck finding English speakers around. 

It started to rain. This time it was in earnest. We stepped into an office building lobby, and I got out our folding umbrella for Alice. It was too hot for me to don my poncho and my Tilley was sheltering my face and neck so I carried on. Alice did well at avoiding people and obstacles with the umbrella. Then we rounded a corner and the wind blew the umbrella inside out. We both got soaked before the rain stopped. 

The sun came out. Our clothes started steaming as they dried. We finished our circumnavigation, and headed for souvenir row. We entered a shop, and as we looked around we spotted Matthew, one of the EXc guides. We guessed we had chosen well if he was shopping here. When we said hello he steered us to another shop up the street. We carried on. We found his shop, but when all was done we ended up with 9 postcards. 

We returned to the tender jetty pretty much dried out, and rode back to Maasdam. It had taken us over 3 hours for our walk around the island.

As we exited the tender at Maasdam we were delayed on the boarding steps as the crew helped a disabled guest get up the steps with his chair. It started to rain. We were again dripping when we arrived at our cabin. 

A really good time despite the soakings.