August 3, 2023 - Eidford, Norway

 August 3, 2023 - Thursday - Eidfjord, Norwa

Today We took a shore excursion to see a Canyon and Waterfalls. This took us high into the mountains. Again the roads were winding and the tunnels were long. We viewed many small waterfalls along the way but the best was yet to come. The coach parked in a lot near a hotel and we walked a short way to the viewing platforms. They were carefully cantilevered to afford the best views of the canyon and the glorious waterfalls that cascaded into it. This was truly remarkable both visually and audibly. Wow!

Rebounding the coach we drove on to the second sight. This was a very large earthen dam that created a reservoir lake of considerable size. To add to this, several glaciers were visible in the mountains beyond the lake. To further enhance this experience we learned that the dam was made using rocks removed from the mountains when the tunnels were excavated. Everything possible is repurposed.

Alice and I walked around the coach for additional views. On the way, I noticed the bus driver with the motor access cover open. He was adding fluid. I guessed it was oil to top off after the grueling uphill climb. His oily rags seemed to support that.

We all boarded the coach and headed to our last stop. This was a hotel at 3,100 feet in front of a couple of glaciers. It was a view stop, but also time for a snack and coffee. Inside we were served soft waffles with a berry jam and clotted cream. We spread both on the waffle and wrapped it like a crepe. Fantastic. The flavors and textures were very satisfying. The coffee was good too

When we returned to the coach our guide, Friday, told us that the coach had a fluid problem and was no longer safe to drive. A replacement coach had been ordered and should arrive in about half an hour. It had taken us overt hours to get there so we were skeptical. half an hour later we learned that it would be another half an hour. The good news was that we could return to the restaurant to wait inside or sit on the hotel porch. Alice and I were among the few who went inside. We are glad we did because it gave us the opportunity to speak to our waitress. She was very pleasant and spoke perfect English. We asked if she lived there .there was no town. Just the hotel and two cabins behind it. She told us she did live there and pointed to one of the cabins. When we asked if she would be there all winter she said she was not sure. She had just started working there three days prior. We thanked her and wished her well.

We walked around outside to pass the time and found a humongous snow vehicle parked outside. We don’t know how it is used but it sure looks formidable. As we returned to the roadside we met the coach driver. He was looking down the road and in the distance he saw the replacement vehicle coming. Alice and I headed toward the old coach and saw two large puddles of fluid behind the left front wheel. Walking behind the coach we discovered a trail of large drips from the lot entrance up to the coach. Also, the back of the coach was covered with dark spray. I think the problem was with the power steering or some hydraulics.

The replacement arrived. It was a city bus, not a coach. We boarded and found it to be comfortable enough. The driver took a different route back Eidfjord and we were there in an hour. That made us only an hour and a half behind schedule. 

We had lunch in Windows Cafe before heading out on our walk. Here was another case of an old church and a new church. There was also a woodworker’s shop near the old church. When we set out I misread the map and had us take a hike to a bridge over the river through town. At the bridge, I looked across and realized my mistake. We crossed halfway for pictures and then retraced our steps.  As we approached the fjord we saw a sign pointing to the wood shop. We knew the churches were along the way and made the turn

We found the new church first. It was locked so after a walk around for photos we walked on. Near the top of a hill, we saw the old church. We and another couple opened the gate and entered the yard. When we got to the church door it was locked. we turned to leave and at the gate, we were met by a local man who had just driven up. He explained to us that the church is a historical landmark and is not open to the public. in fact, it is only used for services two days a year. One is in December and the other is in May. He was the caretaker and since there were only four of us he would let us sin. What luck.

When he opened the door there was a small anteroom blocked at the other side by a gate of wooden bars. He lifted it off the hinges of an inner door, collapsed it, and placed it in the corner. He took us in and explained the history of the church and its features. The stone and stucco walls were 4 feet thick. There were two wood heaters one in front and one in the back. They were original but could no longer be used. The state had allowed for electric service to be added to allow electric heaters. The bells still work and were rung by climbing a long narrow stairway into the belfry.

We thanked him for his kindness and left to visit the woodworker next door.

The first thing we saw when we entered was a case with a beautiful Hardanger fiddle. Alice started to take a picture and the old gentleman yelled no photos. This was a museum. No pictures were allowed even without a flash. We apologized and started to look around. There were two cabinets of museum pieces. The rest were all made by the gentleman who had admonished us. He was really very friendly, especially when he realized how appreciative we were of his work. It was beautiful work. There were some turned bowls of various kinds of wood and some beautiful wooden boxes.

The beauty of these pieces was in the woods that were used. Olaf told us that he got his wood from local farmers. If they had downed trees or wanted trees removed they called him to see if he could use the wood. He would go out and inspect the wood and would either accept it or tell the farmer to use it for firewood.

Olaf shared stories about many of the pieces. Then he took us into his workshop. It had an abundance of hand tools as well as lathes and sanders. He told us he had more power tools upstairs. His bench had a window facing the walk-up to the shop. That was how he could greet customers. He only opens the shop when cruise ships are in. In the shop he as a small table in the corner with a beautiful wooden chair. It was made from a single tree trunk He asked us to sit on it. I went first and could not believe how comfortable it was. When Alice sat on it he immediately said it was half an inch too high. Alice agreed.

He explained that he first started making wooden things when he was nine years old. He was trained as a civil engineer and worked designing roads. He always kept woodworking as a hobby and decided to make it a profession when he retired. He was born in 1943.

After much discussion and story telling he guided us to some small angels of various woods. We looked over about twenty of them before the one we both liked. He closed the sale for just twenty kroner. that was just under $20. We will treasure it.

These visits with the caretaker and the woodworker made this a special day. And again the weather was perfect.