January 18, 2019 - Komodo Island, Indonesia - Friday, Day 13
At 5:00 I got up and headed to the Crows Nest to work on yesterday’s blog. That was a bust because the sun was just rising and we were cruising into the Slawi Bay, bay at Komodo Island where we would anchor for the day. I logged off of the internet and went up to the bow on deck 13. This deck has viewing unobstructed by glass as the top deck on other ships has. it was perfect for taking pictures during our slow sail to the anchorage. I was able to take many pictures as we made our way slowly in. Eventually I heard the anchor chain ride out. It was 6:30, time to return to the stateroom and prepare for early breakfast. Our tour gathers at 8:15 for our 8:30 departure by tender for our excursion ashore. Passengers were allowed ashore only if they had booked a ship’s tour or had booked a private tour.
At the dock our group was met by 3 men, a park ranger, a guide from the tour company used by Holland America and a local from the nearby town. The ranger carried a seven foot long stick that was forked at one end. He explained the rules to us, and told us that his stick would be used to fend off the dragons if necessary. The ranger would lead our group on the trail for our 3 kilometer trek. The guide, Visi, would walk in the middle of the group and provide a narration and answer questions. the local man would bring up the rear and keep us together. The local was also a hawker for the souvenir stands we would visit at the end of the tour.
Visi explained that the females made nests about 3 feet high by 3 feet around. or they might simply take over the large nests built on the ground by birds. She would lay 15 to 30 eggs. These would hatch in September or October after 9 months gestation. Hatchlings would climb an old palm tree and live in a bowl at the top. This afforded protection from their dominant predator, the eagle. The hatchlings lived on insects and small animals. They would come town from the tree to eat, but they had to be careful to avoid mature Komodos because these might eat them.even their mothers might do them in.
AS we walked along it started to rain. I decided to tough it out with out putting on my rain poncho. Alice decided to don hers. I helped her get it on while thinking that the rain would stop about the time she was covered. My guess turned out to be about 2 minutes early. Now she was walking in inbreathing plastic in the sun. We tried arranging the poncho to provide some relief to no avail. Soon I had the poncho once again rolled up into the bag I carried.
After a long walk and hearing all sorts of things about Komodos, we located one. It was up a hill just beyond the point where our trail turned to head back. We had to negotiate a steep trail up the hillside with exposed roots and loose gravel. At the top we viewed a moderate sized dragon laying in the tall grass. The ranger kept us 15 feet away from it.
Now we defended the hill and returned to our trail as we headed toward a waiting hole. On the way our guide showed us a very large mound. It was a bird’s nest that had been appropriated by a Komodo years ago. When we got to the watering hole there were 6 dragons there at first. They were all laying quietly around the hole. The ranger marked a line in the soil that was to keep us at a safe distance. Behind us there was some activity and a juvenile dragon come walking toward us. The ranger used his prod to redirect this kid. It was thought to be about 2.5 years old and was an agile 2.5 footer. It had come down from its tree to get some water.
Looking back toward the hole one animal at the bottom of a stack of three decided it wanted out. The disruption of the pile led to much hissing and growling and a confrontation between the mover and the sleepers. Our keep clear line was moved farther back. The juvenile ran back to the woods and the big boys ended up just growling and glaring at each other. Walt Disney could not have offered a bette display.
We moved on to the souvenir stalls after bidding the ranger and our guides farewell. We had been told prices were negotiable, but found little room for price reductions. Our best offers were repeatedly rejected. That was OK. Carved dragons, bowls and boxes were the staple. Every stall had the same goods. The bowls looked alike and seemed to be made of plastic not shells. Alice and I decided that our pictures and memories would be enough for us.
I put away my money and we headed away from the market. Children swarmed around us, pressing against us as they tried yet again to have us buy anything. Finally some adult called off the kids and we escaped. This was the mot unnerving experience we have ever had in a market anyplace in the world.
Once onboard we hung up our sweat soaked clothes and showered before dressing for lunch in the Lido. Lunch was good. Our conversation with the couple from Christchurch sitting next to us was better. We had a good time.
Now Alice is working on her pictures in the stateroom. I am sitting in the too warm Crows Nest completing this blog post. The sun has been beating on the ship and the A/C is not keeping up in the public areas. Thankfully our cabin is comfortable. I will return there as soon as I publish this post.
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